Stuart Ramsay's Daily Dram: Drinking (and eating) in Portland

Drink Bourbon!

2010-05-01T16:00:00.000-07:00

If you're after a post-Derby dram, Eat Oyster Bar (N Williams), Clyde Common, Ten 01, North 45 (NW Portland), Highland Still House (Oregon City) and Beaker & Flask all carry a great selection and, just as important, the bartenders have a good handle on what they carry.

For a bottle, 10th Ave Liquor (downtown), 11th Ave (12th and Hawthorne), Hyland Hills (Beaverton), Sunset (Hillsboro), Pearl and Uptown.

This year, I'm sipping Elmer T Lee single barrel to cheer on the thoroughbreds.

Isle of Skye tastings this week

2010-04-19T17:45:00.000-07:00

Greetings!

One of my favorite blended Scotch whiskies is The Isle of Skye, produced by Ian Macleod Distillers, an independent Scottish company. The US Brand manager is visiting Portland this week (April 20, 21, 22) to introduce the whisky to Oregon. It’s a great opportunity to sip one of Scotland’s most feisty drams and learn more about blended Scotch whisky, the canny engine that powers the industry. And perhaps hear a tale or two about formidable women from the beautiful Island of Mist.

Here’s the line-up, and please RSVP to this e-mail re the event(s) you’re planning to attend:

Tuesday, April 20: Highland Still House, 201 S 2^nd Street, Oregon City. (503-723-6789) 6:30 – 8pm Free

Wednesday, April 21: The Pope House, 2075 NW Glisan St (503-222-1056) 4 -6pm Free

Thursday, April 22: Branch, 2926 NE Alberta St (503-284-9600) 6-7:30pm. Free

The uplifting news is that it sells for $28.95 in the Oregon liquor stores. I’ve attached info on the whisky, and here’s what Jim Murray has to say in his Whisky Bible:

“An absolute must for any Islay-philes out there – in fact, a must for everybody. Your taste buds are beaten up and caressed simultaneously. One of the most enormous yet brilliantly balanced Scotch whiskies in the world.”

Sláinte!

Stuart

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Oysters, Irish whiskey, local stout, and Centralia Moonshine

2010-04-13T13:48:00.000-07:00

So the consensus at the Oyster/irish whiskey/Stout event at Eat on Saturday was that Greenore, the delicate single grain whiskey, was the best match for the freshly shucked oysters and local stouts. The pairings of Connemara and both stouts--Oyster Stout from Upright and Double Mountain stout (Hood River)--had devout followers, too. For the Oyster stout, Garrett the brewer said they added oyster juice (or nectar as they call it in the shellfish industry) and actual oysters during the boil. A touch of brine in the flavor but not overwhelming.

When I was a wee lad I spent my first real vacation on the Isle of Man. Back then, forty or so years ago, the island had two real ale breweries (my reason for going there) and one of them brewed an oyster stout. I'd wander into the pubs and ask if there was anywhere I could pitch my tent and someone would always say I could spend the night at their house. (it's a Celtic thing) The best was a pub in the south of the island and I ended up staying in the house of a blind, 92 year old piano player who played in the pub. He drove a raggedy old car to the pub each afternoon--he was blind, mind you--and every one would get out of his way. "Oh, it's George," they muttered as he cut a meandering swathe through the village on his way to the piano. It was the three weeks on Isle of Man that inspired me to quit my job in Glasgow and go travelling in search of good beer and whisky.

Forty or so years later I'm in a Creole oyster bar in North Portland talking & sipping oyster stout and listening to the story of an 80 year old woman, a Macdonald, who shared with me the complete recipe for moonshine her father made in Centralia, WA, starting with a burlap sack filled with corn and soaked in water. He made his own copper still and aged the cratur in oak casks. When the daughter nosed the Greenore (93% corn whiskey), it took her back 60 years to when her dad made his moonshine.

In memory of things past...

oysters, Irish whiskey and local stout

2010-04-08T13:05:00.000-07:00

A Trinity of Taste: Oysters, Irish Whiskey & Stout @ Eat. This Saturday!

Originally conceived during the madding celebrations to honor St Patrick, we’ve managed to bring the Big Easy, Ireland’s only independent distillery and two local whippersnapper breweries together for a brilliant afternoon of hedonism.

WHAT: A pairing of oysters, Irish whiskey and stout (and perhaps a porter). A half-dozen freshly shucked oysters; Greenore Single Grain, Tyrconnell single malt, Connemara peated Irish whiskey; Oyster Stout from Upright Brewing, and a couple of dark beers from Double Mountain Brewery.

WHERE: Eat: An Oyster Bar. 3808 N Williams, Portland (Phone: 503-281-1222)

WHEN: Saturday, April 10^th From 2-5pm. Just stop by between these hours and we’ll set you up with the Trinity.

COST: $20 for the full Trinity.

May the wind always be at your back and let the good times roll.

Sláinte!

Stuart

Hangar One vodkas: erudite spirits

2010-04-06T16:23:00.000-07:00

The good and erudite people at St George Spirits (based in the Bay Area) sent me their latest bottlings of Hangar One vodkas. I'm not the biggest fan of the white ethyl usually, but St George has been the best and most consistent craft distillery in America and everything they produce is top class. Their nuanced straight vodka blends pot still vodka (a Holstein still) distilled from the lees of viognier wine, and their flavored vodkas magically capture the essence of the fruit and transport you to exotic places---well, I suppose it depends on how many you have and how good a traveller you are: Kaffir Lime, Mandarin Blossom and Citron Buddha's Hand. When I met the distiller, Lance Winters, years ago, his business card had "Rocket Scientist" as his profession, which gives you an idea of how and where he'd like to transport you to. There's a ton of info and recipes on their website: www.hangarone.com. I like sipping them with a few ice cubes and a splash of soda or tonic. Sublime stuff from a true craft pioneer.

Kelley Swenson's Stringer's Bell

2010-03-31T15:53:00.000-07:00

Looks as though Heering cherry liqueur is the current sweetheart of Portland mixologists. Stopped in to see the always charming Kelley Swenson at Ten 01 to see what he's shaking. he poured me the Stringer's Bell:

Old Forester Bourbon

Heering cherry liqueur

Angostura Bitters

Lime zest

Neil Kopplin's Whiskey Rose

2010-03-23T21:18:00.000-07:00

Clyde Common's one of my favorite bars, or bar counters, --a stellar whiskey list, comprehensive spirits portfolio, and every obscure bitters or digestif the industry can come up with, backed up with an always interesting food menu. Serious bartending, too, and the bartenders actually find time to have a dialogue with the customer instead of concentrating too much on the architecture of cocktail building. Neil Kopplin, one of the best mixologists in the city, shared this recipe when I stopped by last night:

Neil Kopplin's Whiskey Rose:

1 1/2 oz Jim Beam Black

3/4 oz Cherry Heering

One teaspoon mescal

2 dashes Regan's Orange Bitters no. 6

Shaken and poured over two of those icebergian square cubes.

Garnish with flamed orange zest

Neil also tells me he's involved in a Northwest vermouth project; it's in the R&D stages right now...more on this as it develops

A slice o' Portland: Plan B

2010-03-19T13:44:00.000-07:00

Alright, this one may be for those of us who are twisted, burnt and broken, or perhaps just voyeurs of the social fabric, but I had a powerful Hendrick's and tonic at Plan B (1305 SE 8th Ave) yesterday afternoon. It's a heavy metal bar with velvet paintings, antique posters of circus freaks (Turkey Boy, Alligator Skin Girl, Four-legged teenagers, the usual...), a Mr T chia pet, foetus photographs, cabbage patch dolls in formaldehyde and an alcove devoted to Charles Manson and his charming assistants.

A customer walks in and orders a can of Strongbow cider with a Potter's Rye chaser and proceeded to down six of these lovely pairings in an hour. This being Portland, the conversation revolved around organic food carts in the neighbourhood. And deafening death metal music in the evening.

Fantastic beers on tap, too. I asked the bartender who the interior designer was and she said herself. So thanks, Heather, for creating such twisted decadence in the city of stumps and roses.

(Suggestion: if you're shy, visit Plan B late afternoon.)

Irish Frisky & Beer Session

2010-03-18T13:04:00.000-07:00

Just posted the St Patrick's Day Irish Frisky and Full Sail Beer pairing on my Whiskey Straight blog. The good news is you can get all the pairings at McCormick & Schmick's Harborside restaurant, and can experiment with John Harris's great portfolio of beers; he has rare gems on tap here that you can't get anywhere else. As fresh as you'll find anywhere. An island bar, great happy hour deals, and you can walk your debauchery off along the promenade.

Speaking of debauchery, the Connemara Peated Irish Whiskey paired with Top Sail Bourbon Aged Porter will get you on that particular bike.

"When money's tight and is hard to get

And your horse has also ran,

When all you have is a heap of debt--

A PINT OF PLAIN IS YOUR ONLY MAN.

Flann O'Brien: At Swim-Two-Birds

Northern Star

2010-03-17T12:09:00.000-07:00

OK, it's St Patrick's Day and we should be talking Irish Frisky, but I had a delightful cocktail at The Teardrop Lounge last night and wanted to share it: Northern Star

Four Roses Bourbon

Marolo Chamomile Grappa

Lemon

Oregon Honey

Prosecco

Star Anise garnish.

If I want to fall off the barstool, I normally go for a French 75 (gin and champagne), and the Northern Star performs the same function with a Bourbon twist, and a sweet, smooth Bourbon at that.

When I was at the Teardrop, the two German lads who make The Bitter Truth series of bitters were there. Sipped their Celery bitters, Creole Bitters, and about 5 others. They're lining up distributors so they should be available soon in Oregon. In the meantime, Daniel at the Teardrop may spare a drop or two to try. They use a different spirit base for each Bitters. I asked Stephan Berg, the GM of The Bitter Truth, what the spirits were. "I vill not tell you zat," was his tightlipped response.

Ron Gansberg's world

2010-03-10T12:57:00.000-08:00

I worked with Ron Gansberg, head brewer at Raccoon Lodge/Cascade Brewing, many years ago at BridgePort, back in the halcyon first wave of craft brewing in Oregon...Karl Ockert, Matt Sage, Jeff Keighley, Tim Healy...a brilliant crew of beer innovators and comedians, working for pennies. Ron was in his own Gansbergian world even back then, and he is about to unleash his quirky beer vision at Cascade Brewing's new facility on SE Belmont (and 9th) come late April/early May. Ron's 'mainstream' beers at the Raccoon Lodge are easily some of the best in the region; he's not a hophead and the beers are full of balanced character: No Doubt Stout, Busta Nut Brown, Quad Blond Ale...we paired up these beers with Cooley Irish whiskies for a future event.

The new pub on Belmont is going to specialize in Northwest sour beers--Belgian in inspiration but with Gansberg at the kettle, they are and will be some of the most exciting and innovative brews to come out of the Northwest. He'll start with the grain and regular fermentation, then add a lactobacillus culture to 'sour' the beer, along with local fruits and a period of aging in oak casks; some casks are ex-Bourbon, some are European that have had Oregon wines in them. He then blends these casks to create a formidable, mouth-puckering and mind-blowing portfolio of beers. I tasted these original beers straight from the oak; with names such as Vlad the Imp Paler, Beerbonic Plague, Beerbicyde--I told you he has a unique world vision. The Raccoon Lodge is currently pouring Spring Gose, a wheat-based beer with chamomile, lemon peel and lavendar (no oak), Winter Gose (cranberries, hibiscus, cinnamon; again, no oak) and Sang Noir (cherries, bourbon oak aged.)

As Ron says, he wants to give beer drinkers an alternative, intense sensational experience other than hops. Welcome to Gansberg's world...

Chasing the White Dog, 2

2010-03-07T14:19:00.000-08:00

More travels with Max Watman, author of 'Chasing the White Dog': I chose Portland's House Spirits as my artisan distillery of the year in my Hogmanay Awards for a number of reasons, one being how tuned in they are to our modern drinking culture. House hosted Max at one of their ongoing RPM sessions at Olympic Provisions, the new charcuterie restaurant in industrial SE Portland (107 SE Washington Street). A perfect match, really, with the people from Olympic/Clyde Common/Ace Hotel creating a new urban food and hospitality culture in sync with House's spirit.

Christian Krogstad of House was shaking it in the travelling well and came up with a tantalizing cocktail crafted from their white dog: The Willis--House Spirits white dog, bianco vermouth and a dash of 50/50 bitters.

Lee Medoff, partner with Christian at House, told me that the new breed of bartenders have as much to do with the direction of the distillery as they do. The bartenders wanted a young, fairly raw whisky so they could mix it with their magic, so that's one reason House released their youthful and highly respectable dram a few weeks ago. (Sazerac did the same with their Sazerac Rye...it was built for cocktails--the Sazerac and manhattans--although it's a brilliant sipping dram, too.) It was the Portland bartenders who said they could have fun with House's white dog, and it looks as though this could be the next plaything with these bartenders: white dog cocktails. The killer about starting a whisky distillery is how long you have to wait until the brown stuff matures. Talk to a Scotch or a Kentucky distiller and they're sceptical about these new craft distillers. "You have to wait so long for the whisky to be ready." Well, maybe not.

House is selling their white dog, alongside other limited release gems, at their Apothecary shop at the distillery: 2025 Se 7th, on Saturdays. Go take a tour and buy a bottle and make your own cocktails.

After the gig at Olympic provisions (more on the meat and food there in another blog), we headed up to Division to the Whiskey Soda Lounge for a whiskey and beer pairing. The beer arrived in a huge glass, an imperial pint I think, and the bartender couldn't understand that we just wanted a small beer back, nor would he serve it in one of the myriad small glasses he had. Not very civilised, rude in fact, and a black mark on Portland's drinking culture. If you're going to bring attitude to your job, know your craft, at least.

Chasing the White Dog

2010-03-05T10:18:00.000-08:00

Hooked up with Max Watman, a journalist who's just written a book about moonshine--a great read and one that sheds myths about the white dog and ends up being a more interesting and relevant because of that. From nip houses in Philadelphia to road trips with Junior Johnson, Max tells a great story passionately, and has backed up his wide-ranging topic (Prohibition, modern craft distilling, American spirits history, even how to make it) with solid research. Plus he really enjoyed the Schooner (Forty Creek and LTD Pilsner) and the Sazerac Sound (Saz rye and Hales Cream Ale) at the Produce Row before we went drinking.

His book is 'Chasing the White Dog: An amateur outlaw's adventures in moonshine' (Simon & Schuster) There's signed copies at Powell's on Burnside.

Meat Cheese Bread

2010-02-15T20:10:00.000-08:00

Stopped in this great little sandwich and breakfast shop to get some Xocolatle de David chocolates (the chocolatier makes them here) for Valentine's Day. Yet another place that fits perfectly in the neighborhood--Buckman, that is. Delicious sandwiches, everything hip without being pretentious. One of the partners came over and offered me a chocolate made with pork blood. An artisan chocolate made with pork blood. As I said, very Buckman. I'm looking forward to haggis truffles. Now what whisky pairs with a pork blood chocolate? I'm leaning towards Mortlach, where the Danes were massacred by the Scots after one of them stepped on a thistle and let out a feeble Viking squeal. That is why the thistle is the national emblem of Scotland.

Meat Cheese Bread is at 1406 SE Stark. Breakfast and lunch.

Eat, An Oyster Bar

2010-02-12T12:05:00.000-08:00

Had an excellent Oyster Po Boy and a cold beer at Eat, a delightful oyster bar at 3808 N Williams. Very New Orleans, captures the clutter and mood of the big easy. Great, affordable food; smart cocktails and one of the best Bourbon selections in the city...around 40 Bourbons and ryes, including a full Pappy Van Winkle range, George T Stagg and Parker's Cask Strength.

When I lived in New Orleans, my favorite restaurant was Buster Holmes in the French Quarter; red beans and rice for $1.99; Elvis Costello and Wild Cherry on the jukebox; a cold glass of Dixie beer---washed all the humidity away.

Beer at the Highland Still House

2010-02-05T10:39:00.000-08:00

OK--it's a long drive down dealership row to get to the Still House in Oregon City, and a longer, riskier drive back. But you get the chance to take in the maelstrom of Willamette Falls across the road and soak in the OC pulp mill culture. And don't forget to rub the head of Dr John Mclaughlin for luck, then head into the Still House for a dram and a beer. Mick and Tami take their beer as seriously as their whisky, and there's always a formidable range of ales on tap. Belhaven Golden Thistle is always fresh and eager to be consumed, and Mick has established a great relationship with local brewers...Bridgeport Highland Ambush is currently pouring; a beer created 20 years ago when I worked there. Ron Gansburg and Jeff Keighley were the creators, inspired by yarns from my Scottish drinking days, including one where I was headbutted down a Glasgow close by two Glaswegian thugs. I had gone down the close to pee after the pub closed, was accosted by the said thugs, but managed to pee on them both. It's a Glasgow thing and the reason my two front teeth are crowns.

Let us praise John Barleycorn...and our local brewers.

Spints alehouse

2010-02-02T10:40:00.000-08:00

Great new gathering place in the 28th & Burnside neighborhood: Spints alehouse at 401 NE 28th Ave; owner/chef is Alyssa Gregg, formerly the chef at the Teardrop Lounge in the Pearl; front of the house, wielding the Boston shaker is Ted Charak, another Teardrop alumni.

Spints means locker in German and there's a German theme in the food and beerlist--14 taps. It's bigger than this, though...wonderful, sophisticated yet warm atmosphere; great food, drink and service. I hope this is the shape of things to come in Portland's neighbourhood gathering places. Long live the new urban bistro! (And a nifty happy hour from 4-6pm.)

Spints alehouse

2010-01-25T09:10:00.000-08:00

I'm really enjoying this trend of quality neighborhood gathering places opening up. Not sure if I'd call Spints, on 401 NE 28th, an alehouse. They do have 14 beers on tap; Owner/chef Alyssa Gregg worked at The Teardrop Lounge in the Pearl; there's a Northern European/Alpine/german angle at work, and Spints means something German or Alpine...I'll take better notes next time. The food is excellent---a serious kitchen, wine list, spirits and cocktail list. Ted Charak, also ex-Teardrop is running the bar. All high quality stuff combined with a warm, inviting feel and pleasant service. Akin to Bar Avignon but more bistro. Check it out during happy hour, from 4-6, then come back for dinner.

Celebrating Robert Burns at the Still House

2010-01-24T23:29:00.000-08:00

Headed down scenic McLoughlin Boulevard to host a Burns shindig at The Highland Still House in Oregon City. A full house; great whiskies, music, food, and a celebration of the immortal bard. There seems to be nearly a dozen Robert Burns events going on in the Portland area..for my part, I can't stand the long-winded speeches, the formality, soprano voices--all of it so far removed from who Burns was and what he enjoyed. He certainly wasn't a friend of the monarchy; he sympathized and empathized with the American and French revolutionaries. He despised hypocrisy and the Scottish Presbyterian church reeked of it. He was a humanitarian, an egalitarian, a genius at satire. He regarded himself as a songwriter more than a poet. Oh and did he love his Scottish women...three times doubled fairly, amang the rigs o' barley!

We enjoyed Kilbeggan Irish (established 1757, 2 years before Burns' birth!), Isle of Arran Robert Burns, Glenfarclas, Oban, Ardbeg with the haggis, and Benromach Peat Smoke. Alistair Ramsay played the pipes and paired up a tune with each whisky.

Here's what Burns had to say about France and America while he was working as an exciseman:

"I sat through the anthem with my hat on and arms folded; interpreters may read my private sentiments; they did and I was brought before the excise board again, and my promotion was stopped. I couldn't hide where my real sympathies lay, with our American colonists, their brothers in France. And any man seeking freedom. But while I couldn't bite, I could still bark: Oh who will not sing God save the king, shall hang as high as the steeple; but while we sing god save the king, let's not forget the people."

RAMSAY'S DRAM HOGMANAY AWARDS, 2009

2010-01-19T00:00:00.000-08:00

RAMSAY’S DRAM HOGMANAY AWARDS, 2009

(THE HOGGIES!)

Greetings:

It’s a tradition in Scotland to go “First-Footing” and visit friends and neighbors with a bottle of spirits and a small gift (handsel) after the Hogmanay celebration of New Year. The visitor offers a wee dram and a toast to the host, and the drink is reciprocated in the home or office. In Scotland, this tradition of first footing can take several weeks.

With this in mind, please consider the following recommendations for First-Footing, and beyond. These are spirits that I have reviewed and re-visited (and re-visited) over the past year. Many are from independent, family-owned and local distillers. This year, I have leaned towards the more affordable independent drams.

I’ve also listed at the beginning my favorite bars and liquor stores in the Portland area.

Wishing you all a healthy, prosperous and happy 2010!

Stuart

www.RamsaysDram.com

“Let mirth abound, let social cheer

Invest the dawning of the year;

Let blithesome innocence appear

To crown our joy,

Nor envy wi’ sarcastic sneer

Our bliss destroy.”

From ‘The Daft Days’ by Robert Fergusson (1750-74)

BEST WHISKY BAR:

Highland Still House

201 South 2nd Street

Oregon City OR 97045-4158

(503-723-6789)

BEST SCOTCH BAR:

Highland Still House

BEST BOURBON BAR

The Pope House Bourbon Lounge

2075 NW Glisan Street. Portland (503-222-1056)

Runner Up: Clyde Common

1014 SW Stark Street

Portland, OR 97205 (503 228-3333)

BEST WHISKY COCKTAILS:

TearDrop Cocktail Lounge, 1015 NW Everett, Portland

Portland OR 97209 (503 445-8109)

BEST OLCC WHISKY STORE:

Tenth Avenue Liquor Store

925 SW 10th Ave

Portland, OR 97205 (503 227-3391)

Runner Up:

Hyland Hills

14334 Allen Blvd

Beaverton OR 97005 (503 644-2235)

BEST WHISKY AND BEER PAIRINGS:

Connemara Cask Strength Irish Whiskey and 11 YO Full Sail Imperial Stout (Harborside St Patrick’s Day 2009)

Eagle Rare Single Barrel Bourbon and Hopworks DOA at The Victory, Division Street

The Schooner: Forty Creek Barrel Select Canadian and Full Sail LTD Pilsner at The Produce Row

DISTILLERIES OF THE YEAR:

Scottish Distillery of the Year: Benromach, Forres, Scotland

American Distiller of the Year: Buffalo Trace, Frankfort, Kentucky

Irish Distillery of the Year: Cooley (Kilbeggan, Tyrconnell, Connemara)

Craft Distillery of the Year: House Spirits, Portland, OR

Canadian Distiller of the Year: Forty Creek, Grimsby, Ontario

BEST SCOTCH WHISKIES:

Blend: Isle of Skye 8 YO

Single Malts

Highland Park 12 :$39.45

Glenrothes Select Reserve: $44.95

Glenlivet Nadurra: $54.95

Macallan Fine Oak: 10 YO: $37.95

Benromach Organic: $83.55

Glenfarclas 21 YO: $132.50

WOOD-FINISHED WHISKIES

Tyrconnell Madeira Finish. (Ireland): $80.45

Aberlour a’bunadh: $63.95

Auchentoshan Three Wood: $63.95

PEATED WHISKIES

Connemara Cask Strength (Ireland): $68

Benromach Peatsmoke: $80.55

Longrow CV $61.95

Laphroaig Quarter Cask: $59.95

Ardbeg airidh nam beist: $123

BEST BOURBONS

Elmer T Lee Single Barrel: $34

Evan Williams Single Barrel 2000: $27.45

Four Roses Small Batch: $39.50

Eagle Rare Single Barrel: $26.95

Old Forrester Birthday Bourbon: $38.45

Elijah Craig 18 YO: $43.45

Buffalo Trace Personal Barrel @ 10^th Avenue Liquor Store: $22.95

Parker’s Heritage Golden Anniversary: $142.95

IRISH

Blend:

Kilbeggan: $17.95

Single Malts/Pure Pot Still:

Tyrconnell: $32.95

Redbreast 12 YO: $49.95

CANADIAN

Forty Creek: $19.95

CRAFT DISTILLERS

Ransom’s Old Tom gin. McMinnville, OR: $34.90

Dry Fly Gin. Spokane, WA: $30.45

Krogstad Aquavit: $21.95

Organic Nation vodka. Ashland, OR: $29.80

Clear Creek Eau de Vie de Pomme. Portland, OR: $39.95

Apothecary line from House Spirits. Portland, OR

GIN

Hendrick’s, Scotland: $29.95

VODKA

Rain Lavendar Lemonade. Kentucky: $18.95

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Wild Turkey in Portland

2009-11-12T14:14:00.000-08:00

I've been taking a breather from hosting Jimmy Russell, master distiller (in the true sense of the term) at Wild Turkey Distillery, last week. Last time he was in town, Kitzhaber was governor and attended one of Jimmy's tastings. After the tasting, Jimmy dumped the Governor and went on an underground pub crawl in the dicey downtown area--the Berbati Triangle--and ended up at 3:30am in the Shanghai Tunnel, explaining Kentucky's early hemp industry to a group of tattooed and pierced wee Bohemians.

No pub crawl this time, but at 75, Jimmy could still outpace the rest of us. Wild Turkey is now owned by an Italian company--Grupo Campari. The previous owners, Pernod Ricard, had to sell Wild Turkey because they needed the cash for some giant vodka brands. Beware of giant vodka brands--they end up steering the company ship and all the energy and focus ends up in marketing and hype.

Really enjoyed Jimmy's 10 YO Russell's Reserve and Wild Turkey Rare Breed...more on these whiskies and Jimmy's tour in the coming days.

The Boilermaker's Society--a shortcut

2009-10-30T15:49:00.000-07:00

Normally, I like my beer in my right hand; my whiskey in my left. Sip the whiskey followed by a sip of beer. Wait five minutes and you're talking to God. It has so much going for it: something to do with both hands; gainful employment for a local brewer in your right hand; same goes for a Scot or Kentuckian in your left.

Or you can age a formidable beer in a Bourbon barrel and talk to God that way. I was down at Roots Brewing on SE 7th and had a pint of Younger's Nightmare on the beer engine: Roots' Excalibur Imperial Stout aged in Van Winkle barrels: 9.2% abv; surprisingly drinkable with a complex medley of chocolate, salt, roasted malt and alcohol, with the oak flavors purring in at the finish.

It's called Younger's Nightmare because Don Younger, the eternal publican of the Horse Brass, apparently told Roots founder, Craig Nicholls, that organic beer would never take off. Don: you live in Portland; we love beer....

Craig bought out his partner, Jason, a while back, and is recovering from a beer distributor issue (ie a beer distributor screwed the brewery), so he's concentrating on bottled beer outside the pub, draft beer at the pub and building the pub business up. He has a liquor license now and is adding Bourbon, Scotch and local spirits...I see a Van Winkle dram and Excalibur stout pairing in the not too distant future.

Great American Distillers Festival

2009-10-28T13:33:00.000-07:00

Sipping drams at the Great American Distillers Festival in the Bossanova ballroom last weekend. Seemed to be more emphasis on our expert mixologists than the distilleries, but the seminars were interesting. Lots of vodkas and gins and a handful of whiskies. Since it's for US craft distillers only, it's to be expected that only a few have been around long enough to have an aged whiskey to sell. I was impressed with Roughstock Montana Whiskey--I've posted more info on this dram in my Whisk(e)y Straight blog. The Tuthilltown whiskies from New York state were tasting young, (Hudson Baby Bourbon and Hudson Manhattan Rye) with their Hudson Four Grain showing potential and balance.

And lots of vodka! I hope we start talking soon about craft distilleries that ship in food grade alcohol from the likes of Archer Daniel Midland versus the distilleries that make their spirit from scratch in their own still. These are the distillers that take their craft seriously and likely have some whiskey aging away...case in point is Dry Fly Distilling from Spokane, WA: a serious, handcrafted vodka (100% Washington wheat) and a wheat whiskey, (Washington wheat of course!) mild as milk with good pedigree.

Bagpipes & Whisky

2009-10-21T16:29:00.000-07:00

Hosted a whisky tasting for the Portland Yacht Club a couple of nights ago. I asked my son, Alistair, to come up with a pipe tune that matched each of the whiskies. Subliminal advertising at its most powerful, and it gives me a breather. (Alistair is pipe major for the Portland Metro Youth Pipe Band; you can see them perform on YouTube.)

Here's what he came up with:

Kilbeggan Irish Whiskey (we started with a Kilbeggan and soda): Clan MacRae Society - a march composed by W. Ferguson; Major David Manson - a reel

Forty Creek Whisky (Canadian): Jack Adrift (hornpipe) by Donald MacLeod; Joshua James (jig) by Patrick MacIntyre

Glenfarclas 12 YO and 105: Sleeping Time (air) by Gordon Duncan; The Shepherd's Crook (Strathspey); Brown-haired Maid (reel) by Donald Macleod

Bowmore: The Skye Boat Song (traditional); Monmouth Drive (Hornpipe) by R.S. MacDonald

I told Alistair that Bowmore was owned by Suntory, a Japanese company, so did he know any Japanese pipe tunes. (Figuring this would stump him) Turns out Monmouth Drive was composed in Japan by RS MacDonald, who had married a Japanese citizen, and the tune reflects traditional Japanese music.

Not often my jaw drops in disbelief, but it did then.

Thanks for the enlightenment, Alistair!

Oregon Distillers Guild tasting

2009-10-19T16:45:00.000-07:00

Out at McMenamin's Edgefield for the second annual spirits tasting put on by the OR Distillers Guild. Distillers to watch: Artisan Spirits, Organic Nation, Sub Rosa, Edgefield and House Spirits.

There's still a few vodka distillers with innocuous white spirit, likely shipped from our food grade alcohol friends at Archer Daniels Midland, but the above distillers are passionate about what they're doing and doing it from scratch. The distiller from Organic Nation down in Ashland was telling me he has a rye whiskey aging in oak casks; Edgefield seems back on track and I'll be tasting their spirits next week. (They have a peated single malt in the works.)

House Spirits are the class act in Oregon distilling, and they're releasing whiskies in April 2010. I've tasted them along the way and they're going to be stunning drams. House also has a program called the Apothecary Line, limited edition spirits creatively packaged in 375ml bottles. You can buy them only at the distillery (in the Apothecary shop) on Saturdays from 1-4pm. I tasted a delicious, balanced rum made from 100% Turbonado cane sugar from Hawaii. 2025 SE 7th Ave in Portland (503-235-3174). Start collecting them!

The Boilermaker Society: Eagle Rare & Alameda Black Bear Stout

2009-10-15T16:01:00.000-07:00

Stopped by The Maiden, a Spanish-inspired bar on 689 SE Morrison, last night. It's Spanish-inspired in the food department and has a nifty happy hour, but the drinks are very much Portland-eclectic. By that I mean top quality, independent spirits in just about every category, but you're not overwhelmed with rows of infused/confused white spirits. Jared, the owner, is working really hard to make his place work and he has selected gems on the back bar--I had a well-endowed dram of Eagle Rare Bourbon, paired with Alameda Black Bear stout. Happy sips indeed. The gentleman next to me ordered a Sazerac Manhattan--a perfect use of Sazerac Rye 6 YO.

It's a lovely, wee bar with sweet, friendly waitstaff who love to talk about their booze.

Drinking on Division

2009-10-14T14:42:00.000-07:00

I've been enjoying drams, beer and food lately in two of my favorite neighborhood bars: Victory at 3652 SE Division, and Bar Avignon, down the street at SE 2138.

Victory's the more bohemian destination , perfectly in tune with the off-center neighborhood, with a truly eclectic and well-chosen spirits and beer selection. If you're in the mood for an obscure aperitif or a wild Belgian ale, Victory will have it. Or try the hushpuppies with an Eagle Rare Bourbon and seasonal draft beer.

Bar Avignon's drink focus is wine and it's chosen with a distinct world-view. The owners are there to explain the selection and you can buy the bottles at 25% off retail price. There's a new chef, too, Jeremy Eckel, and he's taking the bar to another level. It's a sophisticated place, romantic and unpretentious.

What I like about both these bars is they reflect the passion of the owners and they take drink--all of it: spirits, beer, wine, cocktails--and food seriously. They buy locally but they're not parochial about it; if there's an artisan whisky maker in Colorado or a craft brewer in Scotland, Victory and Avignon will happily pour their products, and do it knowledgeably. Both have decent prices and happy hours.

I get the feeling I'm in a neighborhood in Paris when I'm drinking here, with layers of Portland hedonism added on.

Sante!

Dram of the Week: Elmer T. Lee Single Barrel Bourbon

2009-10-08T14:36:00.000-07:00

I was in Kentucky a few weeks back, a guest of Buffalo Trace Distillery, to celebrate the 90th birthday celebration of Bourbon icon, Elmer T. Lee. Elmer has worked 60 years at the distillery, beginning his career in 1949 when Colonel Albert Blanton was running the place. In 1984, the distillery introduced Blanton's Single barrel Bourbon, the first single barrel on the market. As a tribute to his former boss, Elmer selected Blanton's favorite barrels, all located in the only 'ironclad' warehouse at Buffalo Trace. Every Monday since then, Elmer has handpicked Blanton's whiskey.

Elmer has his own whiskey, too; Elmer T Lee Single Barrel, and, like Blanton's, he selects his favorite dram from choice, 'honey' barrels. It's a fresh, glorious whiskey with tingling rye character and great balance. The barrels are typically 9 years old and it sells for around $30 here in Oregon. When told that the company was going to name a whiskey after him, Elmer said, "It better be the best and it better be sweet."

If you can still find it in their bars, the bartenders from the Lucky Tiger group--Beaker & Flask, Victory, Ten -01, Park Kitchen--went to Kentucky and selected their own Elmer T Lee single barrel; an equally noble dram--the Uptown Liquor store on 23rd and Burnside is the retailer for the whiskey.

So happy birthday, Elmer T Lee. May your prize roses grow profusely and may there always be giant bass in the Kentucky River.

WHISKY & BEER PAIRING: THE BOILERMAKER CLUB

2009-10-07T14:57:00.000-07:00

I’ve been working with local breweries pairing up two of my major food sources: whisky and beer. Sometimes the beer works as a chaser; sometimes the beer enhances the whisky, and every so often there’s a pairing that could be poured in heaven. The Produce Row, a pub with true Portand beer pedigree, is branching out into spirits and has come up with well thought-out whiskey and beer pairings, with clever names to add to the experience.

John K Hall, the Canadian whisky maker of the ethereal ‘world’ whisky, Forty Creek, was in town a few weeks ago and Alan and Blake from the Row and myself sat down and came up came up with ‘The Schooner’, Forty Creek paired up with Full Sail LTD 3 Pilsner. I call Forty Creek a world whisky because it sure doesn’t taste like a mainstream Canadian; it has hints of single malt, Bourbon and straight rye all married together seamlessly. The fruit and spice and smooth depth of the whisky went beautifully with John Harris’s crisp, refreshing pilsner. More of a chaser, but an aristocratic one that works.

Not sure if we should call this journey The Boilermaker Club (thanks Rudy Yuly) or The John Barleycorn Society…anyway, I’ll be adding more pairings to the blog, and feel free to share your discoveries.

Blessings on thee, John Barleycorn!

Upcoming Bourbon Tastings

2009-10-05T11:57:00.000-07:00

Welcome to my Stuart Ramsay's Daily Dram, a blog about the drinking culture in Portland, Oregon. It will cover the events I coordinate and host, the innovative Portland bar and food scene, local artisan and international spirits and events, craft beer and cocktail news.

First up: I'm hosting several Bourbon tastings at McMenamin properties over the next couple of weeks. We'll be sipping Blanton's, Buffalo Trace, WL Weller, Eagle Rare and a surprise whiskey (begins with Sazerac...). There will be hearty hors d'oevres, as they say in the hospitality trade, great Bourbons and good Kentucky tales, all for $40:

Thursday, Oct 8 at Cornelius Pass Roadhouse. 7pm 503-640-6174

Friday, Oct 23 at McMenamin's Grand Lodge in Forest Grove. 7pm 503-992-9533

Call each property to make a reservation

Cheers,

Stuart